Baku: Old City and the modern skyline

Icheri Sheher and Modern Baku is a tour built around contrast: how the city protects centuries of history while racing toward the future at the same time. In half a day we go from the narrow medieval lanes of the Old City to the glass towers along the waterfront, and the shift is so sharp that many guests tell me this contrast is the real Baku.

We start in the Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site ringed by 12th-century fortress walls. Inside is a maze of cobbled streets, a teahouse on every corner, craft workshops, and homes where the same families have lived for generations. We'll climb the Maiden Tower, one of Baku's most recognisable landmarks, whose exact origins are still debated by historians, and pass by the Shirvanshahs' Palace, home to Azerbaijan's 15th-century rulers.

From there we walk through some of the city's most atmospheric corners: Fountains Square, early-20th-century mansions built by oil barons, and quiet courtyards you won't find in guidebooks. I'll show you where Bakuvians themselves go for an evening walk, and tell you the stories that rarely make it into standard tours.

We finish in the modern part of the city, on the Seaside Boulevard with a view of the Caspian and the Flame Towers, Baku's newest landmark. In the evening the towers light up in dozens of scenes, including a flame effect — a striking nod to this land's ancient reverence for fire. Seeing the 12th and 21st centuries in a single day is usually what stays with guests the most.

The route is mostly on foot, at a relaxed pace, with stops for photos and shade. It works well both as a first day in Baku and for anyone who wants to see the city more deeply than a standard sightseeing tour allows.

The price includes my company for the whole route and water on hot days. The route is flexible — we can add a stop at a specific place if you'd like. Message me on WhatsApp to arrange a date and start time.